Langkawi, Malaysia - The Eagles Have Landed!

An exhausted Bowen emerges from the cramped confines of the Malaysian high speed ferry to step into the midst of a holiday weekend crowd at the terminal. 

The transition from Koh Tao to the Malaysian island of Langkawi was an arduous one. After spending not a bad, but still fitful night on the overnight ferry, we were hustled off the boat at an obscenely early hour (like 5:30 AM) and crammed into a minibus for the ride into the town of Surat Thani. People were dropped off at various tour agency offices according to final destination. We were teamed up with a woman who had given us a massage at the place next door to our bungalow in Koh Tao - business on that island had dropped off and she was heading to an island on the west coast of Thailand in the hopes of making more money. Her entire belongings were in a bag much smaller than any that we were carrying, and it really gave us pause to think about the different ways that other people live their lives.

We were talked into converting some Thai money into Malaysian Ringitt by the woman who ran the travel agency where we were waiting, as she insisted that the Malaysian immigration officials would not admit us unless we had a minimum amount in our possession. Exhausted from our journey, we let her talk us into it, and of course paid a rate of exchange that was very favourable to her.

We spent most of the day in minibuses, being transferred from one agency to another according to a logistical metric that baffles us, but which somehow works all across South East Asia. They just stick a coloured decal on your shirt and strangers escort you from one point to another and somehow you end up where you belong. Or mostly, anyway.

We did the last leg of our journey on one of the submarine-like closed ferry boats that are favoured in Malaysia. They are probably the most practical choice during the rainy season, but they tend to be over-air conditioned, and journeys of more than 90 minutes leave you frozen. The constant assault of kung fu movies being played on ancient televisions is exhausting as well. As we were docking at Langkawi, Remy was asked by a couple of Danish girls if we were arriving at an island. When he explained where Langkawi was, on the west coast of peninsular Malaysia, they became alarmed because they had been under the impression that they were headed to the Perhentian Islands, which are located off the east coast of the peninsula. How that confusion occurred with their travel agent, we never found out.

We arrived at the main ferry terminal in Langkawi to find out that we had lost an hour due to a time zone change and had unknowingly arrived on the Friday of a major holiday long weekend with no hotel reservations. Everyone we spoke with told us we would not be able to find a place to stay, so we  got in a taxi to Cenang Beach with some foreboding.

Our worries were baseless, however, as we were taken under the protective wing of Yati at the Chenang Inn, which set us on a vector to have an eminently enjoyable stay on Langkawi.

Spoiler alert! Don't look at Bowen's hair yet! With Yati, on the left, at Chenang Inn. The initial 'c' in Malysia usually sounds like 'ch', but they have catered to we foreigners in naming the hotel. Yati really bent over backward to find us a room on what was beginning to feel, for us, like a certain New Testament tale.  

Believe it or not, there is no Canadian flag on that pole!

Muslim high fashion when you are seeking high adventure under the seas! Yes, this really is how a woman who wanted to go snorkeling would dress.

Brilliant marketing at the duty free store! It takes all the guesswork out of what to serve. Interestingly, there were no bottles matched up with fish and sambal.

Two beautiful expanses, only one of which is a wide sandy beach.

What is old is new again. Wait, isn't that why we all went to cell phones in the first place?

Bowen finally did us all a favour and went for a haircut. We sought out an Arabic barber shop because those guys know how to deal with hair, but Bowen's thick, fine locks were a challenge even for them. His tonsorialist persevered, however, and a very handsome young man emerged from under that thick matte of hair.

This is what the news looks like in Malaysia.

We wondered how children keep track of their mothers when everyone wears hijab. We did indeed see several occasions when children ran back to the wrong mothers, but somehow they all make it to adulthood.

We experienced the most amazing light at sunset here. Our building was actually yellow, as you see by the doors, but the evening light would wash everything in pink.

Food salvation! There was a nasi kandar joint just around the corner from our hotel, where we could get roti, chicken murtabak and teh tarik for breakfast at a cost of only a few dollars.

We stopped in at the marina for a look at how the other half lives. They apparently live as well as we do. We saw yachts so big that they carried smaller boats inside them.

A view from the gondola that ascends Mt. Machinchang, the second tallest peak on Langkawi. This particular cable car has the distinction of having the single longest span of any cable car in the world. We were happy to see that it was built by Austrians and not anyone in South East Asia.

The secret is to paste a smile on your face and not look down.

The view to the south of Langkawi and some of the islands of its archipelago. It was blessedly cool at the summit, a welcome break from the sweltering temperatures at sea level.

It is still jarring, even in Muslim Malaysia, for us to see a woman in full burqa. All three of these women are Muslim but the way they choose to dress is completely different. We like that about Malaysia.

This is the Skybridge at the top of the mountain. There are glass panels in the deck of the bridge which offer stomach-clenching views beneath. Because the bridge is suspended from the cables, it bobs slightly as you walk across it, which is also unsettling. Great views, though.

Some more happy mountaineers on their way up. It is unusual for us to ride a gondola up any mountain and still be comfortable in just a T-shirt and shorts.

A view of the Skybridge from above, which gives a better perspective on how freaky the walk across it is.

The waters around Langkawi are the most amazing colour. This is another fine landscape taken by Liz.

Clouds and islands both appear to be floating in the sky. This kind of thing is good for the soul.

Remy and Bowen, both sheepish after being interrupted spitting off the bridge.

After the Skycab, we rode our motorbikes further on and hiked to the Seven Wells Waterfall, so named for the pools that form downstream. Bowen, ever the patriotic Canadian, demonstrated his best salmon swimming technique to the amazement of the locals while Remy did his grizzly bear impression.

Can you see the water sprite amongst the rushing waters?

A view of the Seven Wells below the falls. Bowen exhibits the rock rash he got from sliding down the chutes.

A bathing maiden.

We knew there were rock star good looks under that old mop! Our boy is growing up on this trip.

A stormy sunset. Torrential rains followed by more of that gorgeous light.

Next door to our hotel was this restaurant where you could dine kampung style amid the demonstration rice paddy. We noticed after this picture was taken that the nearest paddy had been covered with netting at some point and that dozens of birds were now caught in it, dead and dying. Liz notified the staff of this alarming situation, and when we went back for supper later that night,the net had been removed.

This is how cashews grow. A single nut grows inside the darker green portion on the end of the fruit, and there are not that many fruit on a single tree. No wonder they are so expensive! It makes Remy think twice when he is shovelling handsful of the darned things into his face. 

Yati took us to a roadside food stall where we had the best Kuay Teow ever. The difference is in the broth, and this iteration was extremely good. This was just one of the many insider experiences Yati arranged for us during our stay.

The proud purveyor. It was so good that even Bowen ate some.

One of the stops on our Yati-led motorbike tour of the island. This was one of the many beautiful beaches on Langkawi. With us are Jari, a Dutch IB student that was a guest of Yati's at the hotel, and a couple of young Austrian ladies that were along for the tour.

The family that does yoga together, stays limber together! Thanks for the planks, Bowen and Liz

Remy demonstrating how he would have to dig if he was tunnelling back to Canada.  

The tallest peak on the island in the background as we enjoy the greens at a golf course. Those darned things are everywhere.

At our turn around point, a gang of happy motorcyclists.

Sunset from the burger joint where we had supper. The islands in the distance belong to Thailand.

We stopped at the very strange treehouse residence of an artist, which is made entirely of driftwood and found objects combed off the beaches. The artist was a piece of work himself - two wives, both of whom lived together, and 87 cats. Guess what Remy stepped in? Bowen and Jari sign the guest book while we are offered spring rolls.

Our dinner at the kampung restaurant, an amazing array of traditional Malay foods.

And this is Remy's favourite breakfast, nasi lemak. You can buy it any time of the day, often from a truck, wrapped in a banana leaf for easy transport. Rice, egg, peanuts, dried anchovies and sambal with a couple of slices of cucumber. Mix it all together and it is an extremely satisfying and healthy meal. Liz and Bowen are seriously disgusted by it however, and can barely stand to watch Remy eat it. Maybe if he slowed down and didn't get rice stuck all over his face...

Cenang Beach is generally this empty throughout the day, and this beautiful along its entire length. Only at sunset, when there is minimal risk of getting a tan, do the locals and national tourists come out to frolic in the water, fully dressed.

Bowen has adopted the local customs and wears a hijab while he sleeps.

Hubba! Hubba!

Cenang Beach has an amazing array of shells. Beautiful to look at, but hard to walk on.

There is a thriving industry of noisy tourist attractions on the beach, including jet skis, parasailing, banana boat riding, and paramotoring (as seen in the sky overhead). There is always the high pitched whine of a motor somewhere along the beach.

Sunset selfie!

A cool piece of architecture on the way up Mount Raya, the highest peak on Langkawi.

The road up the mountain is so windy and in such rotten shape that the motorbike rental shop specifically forbids taking the bikes up there. We did anyway, and let Bowen drive a portion of it.

There is a beautiful but sadly rundown hotel at the summit. This is the pool with its fantastic view. We arrived at the summit just in time for the clouds to roll in, obscure the view and drench everything.

We got off the mountain during a break in the weather. As you can see it is hard to look cool on a scooter. The helmets don't help, either.

Free range cattle are just one of the hazards on the road up the mountain. They are beautiful beasts, though.

Steep jungle scenery along the mountain road. That's Remy and Bowen way off in the distance.

Speed bumps that change location and grow horns. It doesn't get much more hazardous than that! Liz loves the red colour that many of the cattle have.

Liz attempting a Vulcan mind meld with one of the calves. No one was home, unfortunately.

"Are you my mommy?" Good thing the beast got the back of Bowen's shorts, or we might never have gotten down off the mountain.

This Thai Muslim woman wanted a picture of the giants from Canada, so we obliged. In return, we got a photo of a Thai pygmy.

Langkawi translates as "marble island of eagles", which is pretty descriptive if somewhat pedantic. This is the pride of the island, even if it is not proportionately accurate.

I love you, Dad!

Not how we are used to seeing people dressed while riding ATV's, but you have to work with what you have.

This is how you do a family outing in Malaysia. Born to be (modestly) wild!

We missed the memo, and wore completely the wrong bathing suits to the beach today. We would have rented a sailboat if we didn't clash so badly.

Remy and Liz prepared these messages for their mothers, and we celebrated by going out for dinner - like every other night.

Bowen received a rather nasty jellyfish sting while we were swimming. Even though we got vinegar on it right away, it swelled up badly and would still be evident weeks later. Nasty!

Bidding farewell to Yati. Our whole experience on Langkawi was greatly enhanced by her hospitality, and we left with very special feelings for the island and her as a result.

Altogether, we had a wonderful time on Langkawi, and it made us appreciate Malaysia in a new light.  Langkawi is like a budget version of Hawaii, with all the natural beauty at an economical price. Given its duty free status, this was particularly true true when it came time to order beer. We got back to eating Indian food and had the opportunity to pick our own mangoes. There were waterfalls to jump from and some good shopping to be had along the beachfront strip. We are sad to leave, but look forward to experiencing the colonial vibe of Georgetown on the island of Penang, our next stop.

~ Remy